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Motorcycle chains are the unsung heroes transferring engine power to the rear wheel. But how you care for that chain – whether you leave it bone dry, keep it oiled, or treat it with high-tech lubes like EcoGlide MotoMax – can make a surprising difference in power loss and fuel economy. In this article, we’ll compare three scenarios: a non-lubricated chain, a traditionally oiled chain, and an EcoGlide MotoMax-treated chain. We’ll look at real data on transmission efficiency, frictional wattage loss, effects on miles per gallon (MPG), chain wear, and maintenance trade-offs, all in easy-to-grasp terms. Let’s get your drivetrain knowledge rolling!

Running Dry: The Non-Lubricated Chain

Figure 1: A rusty bicycle chain – a vivid example of what happens when a chain runs with little to no lubrication. Rust and grime increase friction dramatically, robbing your vehicle of power and efficiency.

What if you never lubricate your motorcycle’s chain? The short answer: power loss goes up and your chain’s life goes down. Metal-on-metal contact without any oil leads to intense friction. Lab tests have shown that a motorcycle chain’s transmission efficiency can drop by up to 5% when it isn’t lubricated (). In practical terms, that means if your engine is delivering 50 horsepower, as much as 2.5 horsepower could be getting wasted as heat and drag in a dry chain. More commonly, a well-kept chain is extremely efficient – often 96–99% efficient in transmitting power (What is Chain Drive on a Motorcycle?) – but an ill-maintained dry chain won’t hit those numbers.

To put the power loss in wattage: consider a scenario from the bicycle world (where testing chain friction is popular). A clean, factory-lubed bicycle chain running at 250 watts input loses about 7 watts to friction, whereas a completely unlubricated or dirty chain will lose more. In one test, the worst-case lubricant (essentially nearly dry by the end) sapped 9+ watts while the best ultra-smooth lube lost only ~3.8 watts (mechanical – Lost power when chain is not lubricated properly – Bicycles Stack Exchange). That’s a range of nearly 5 watts difference for a cyclist. Now scale that up to a motorcycle’s power – the losses can easily be tens or even hundreds of watts at highway speeds. All that wasted energy means the engine has to work harder to maintain the same speed.

Fuel efficiency (MPG) inevitably suffers from a dry chain. Any extra drag on the drivetrain makes the engine burn more fuel to compensate. If a chain is 4–5% less efficient due to lack of lube, you could see on the order of a 4–5% drop in MPG as well (for example, a bike that normally gets 50 MPG might drop to ~48 MPG). Riders on forums have indeed noted that “any inefficiency will have a negative impact on MPG” when it comes to chains (Does a loose chain affect MPG? – PNW Moto). While it may not make or break your fuel range in one ride, over thousands of miles that wasted fuel (and money) adds up.

Perhaps the most immediate downside of running dry is increased chain wear. Friction without lubrication grinds down the chain’s components rapidly. A dry chain also tends to run hotter (one experiment noted an unlubricated chain ran significantly hotter than a lubed one) (). The higher temperature causes the metal to expand and the chain to stretch (elongate) more quickly, further worsening the fit on sprockets. Essentially, it’s a vicious cycle: no lube leads to heat and vibration, which leads to more wear and even lower efficiency – and around it goes. In fact, proper lubrication can slow the rate of chain stretch and wear by keeping temperatures and vibrations lower; tests found that adding lube reduced chain vibration by about 50% and kept the chain up to 5% cooler, which greatly reduces wear () ().

Real-world reports back this up: mechanics often see chains that were never lubricated needing replacement far sooner. One cycling study joked that if an unlubricated chain lasts only 1,000 km vs 3,000 km for a lubed chain, its friction was probably three times higher during that shortened life (mechanical – Lost power when chain is not lubricated properly – Bicycles Stack Exchange). While that’s a bit tongue-in-cheek, it underscores the point – a dry chain can wear out in a fraction of the time. You’ll be shelling out for a new chain (and sprockets) much more often than if you had just used a few dollars’ worth of lube.

Bottom line: Running a chain dry is a lose-lose. You lose power (a few percent of engine output vanishes), you lose fuel efficiency, and you lose chain longevity. It might be okay in a pinch (say, you just finished a ride in the rain and have to get home before re-oiling), but as a regular practice it’s not advisable. The only “benefit” might be a cleaner rear wheel (no fling-off mess) and avoiding the 5 minutes of maintenance – but you’ll pay for it in other ways. As we’ll see next, even a basic oiling goes a long way to improving efficiency.

The Traditional Approach: Oiled Chains

Figure 2: Lubricating a chain with oil (or spray grease) is standard practice for motorcycles and bicycles alike. A quick spray on the links helps reduce metal contact friction, saving watts and extending the chain’s life.

Most riders are familiar with this routine: clean the gunk off your chain, then apply your favorite chain oil or spray lube. This traditional method – whether using a spray-on lubricant, gear oil, or wax-based lube – is tried and true for boosting chain efficiency. Properly oiled chains are extremely efficient, typically losing only 1–4% of the power in transmission (What is Chain Drive on a Motorcycle?). That translates to 96–99% transmission efficiency, which is about as good as it gets in any powertrain. In fact, chain drives are more efficient than belt or shaft drives largely because you can minimize their losses with lubrication (by comparison, belt drives can lose 9–15% and shaft drives 20%+ of power to friction and mechanical losses) (Chain Vs Belt Vs Shaft Drive: Motorcycle Final Drive Systems Explained With Their Characteristics).

Several engineering studies have quantified just how much lubrication helps. One controlled experiment tested a motorcycle chain under three conditions: never lubricated, intermittently lubricated with a PTFE (Teflon) spray, and continuously lubricated with a drip of light oil. The difference was clear – adding lubrication improved efficiency by an average of 4.1% overall. In that study, the continuously oiled chain performed best, about 4.1% higher efficiency than the dry chain and roughly 3.6% better than the periodic spray-lubed chain. In short, any lubrication was better than none, and more consistent lubrication (keeping the chain wet with oil) was the best case. The oil kept friction low at the chain’s many pin-and-roller interfaces.

From a wattage perspective, a well-oiled chain has minimal losses. If a dry chain at highway speed might be wasting, say, 200+ watts as heat, adding oil could cut that down by a significant chunk (perhaps turning that into 100–150 W loss instead). This is consistent with the idea that friction drops dramatically when you introduce a lubricant film between moving parts. It’s the difference between rubbing your hands together when they’re dry vs with some oil or soap – the latter glides much easier. That ease of movement in the chain links means more of the engine’s power reaches the wheel instead of being gobbled up by grinding friction. On a dyno, you likely wouldn’t feel those saved watts as a big jump in horsepower, but over time you’ll feel it in smooth operation and see it in slightly improved fuel mileage.

Speaking of fuel economy, keeping the chain lubed is essentially free MPG. While it’s hard to isolate in real-world riding (because many factors affect MPG), the reduced drag of an oily chain means the engine uses a bit less effort for the same speed. Think of it like reducing the rolling resistance of your tires or improving aerodynamics slightly – small gains, but they can add up. Anecdotally, riders who switch from a neglected chain to a freshly cleaned and lubed one sometimes report the bike “feels freer” or coasts easier, which hints that the engine can back off a touch for the same road speed. If a dry chain cost ~4% efficiency, restoring that could similarly give a few percent better mileage. A well-lubricated chain ensures you’re getting the MPG your bike is meant to get, rather than losing a mile or two per gallon to drivetrain drag. The consensus is that while chain maintenance might not unleash extra horsepower, it prevents avoidable power loss, which is effectively the same as regaining efficiency.

Chain wear and longevity benefit hugely from oil. Lubrication changes the chain’s wear process from a harsh metal-on-metal affair to a much gentler interaction. With lube, the dominant wear mode shifts away from abrasive grinding toward mild adhesive wear, and any metal particles or dirt are suspended in oil rather than scratching up the chain. The result: your chain and sprockets last a lot longer. A well-lubed chain can easily last 20,000 miles or more on a street bike, whereas a poorly maintained one might be toast in a few thousand. The previously mentioned lab test noted that adding lubricant reduced the rate of temperature rise in the chain by 40% and kept the operating temperature a few degrees lower. Cooler temperatures mean the metal isn’t expanding as much and the hardness of components is retained, which slows down wear and stretch. Less vibration (thanks to the damping effect of oil) also means the chain isn’t slapping and banging itself to death – the smoother motion leads to less mechanical shock on each link ().

There is a trade-off with conventional lubrication: maintenance effort. Oil (or spray lube) doesn’t last forever on the chain. It gets flung off, attracts dirt, and eventually the friction starts creeping up again as the lube dries out or gets contaminated. That’s why manufacturers recommend regular lubrication intervals (for example, every 300-600 miles, or after riding in the rain). Some riders use automatic chain oilers (devices that continuously drip oil on the chain) to keep it constantly lubed – this maximizes efficiency and chain life, but even without an oiler, you can get excellent results by lubing on schedule. The down side of that sticky spray or oil is the infamous “fling” – the oil that spins off the chain can speckle your wheel and swingarm with black goo. It’s a small price to pay for a happy chain, but it’s worth mentioning. You’ll also need to occasionally clean the chain with a degreaser to remove built-up gunk (a mixture of old lube and road grime that can form a gritty paste). Neglecting cleaning while repeatedly adding new oil is not a good idea, as that grit can turn into an abrasive slurry that accelerates wear. So, the routine is: clean, lube, ride, repeat. It’s a bit of work, but it keeps your chain running at ~98% efficiency and greatly extends its lifespan.

In summary, oiling your chain is one of the simplest ways to ensure you’re not losing power or gas mileage unnecessarily. The chain drive, when cared for, is amazingly efficient – often better than other drive types – and that efficiency translates to maximum power at the wheel and minimal losses. You’ll get smoother, quieter performance (no more squeaky “rusty hinge” sounds or jerky power transmission) and peace of mind that you’re not prematurely wearing out expensive components. But what if you want to go a step further? That’s where advanced treatments like EcoGlide MotoMax come into play, aiming to reduce friction even more and eliminate some of the mess of traditional lubes.

Going High-Tech: EcoGlide MotoMax-Treated Chains

Imagine a chain that stays slick and efficient without frequent re-oiling – that’s the promise of advanced lubricants and coatings like EcoGlide MotoMax. EcoGlide MotoMax is a treatment that infuses the chain with special friction-reducing compounds (for example, some formulas use waxes enriched with graphene or other additives for ultra-low friction). It’s essentially a modern twist on chain lubrication: you might apply a solid wax or coating that dries on the chain, rather than a liquid oil that flings off. The goal is to combine the best of both worlds – the low friction of a wet oil and the cleanliness and longevity of a dry coating.

So how do MotoMax-treated (or wax-treated) chains stack up on efficiency and power loss? In theory and testing, they perform on par with a well-oiled chain, and in some cases even better under dirty conditions. A key advantage is that these treatments resist dirt and water far better than oils. Traditional oil will pick up dust like a magnet, which then causes more friction (imagine oil turning into grinding paste). EcoGlide and similar coatings, by contrast, go on in a dry state – dirt doesn’t stick as much, and what does stick is more easily shed. The result is that the chain’s low-friction condition lasts longer. In a laboratory test on bicycle chains, a high-performance dry lubricant was found to reduce energy losses by 17% compared to the factory grease in a clean setting, and by 23% in muddy conditions (AlliedCycleWorks). That means when things got dirty, the fancy lube had a much smaller rise in friction than a normal lube, preserving efficiency. While that specific test was on a bicycle, the physics carry over to motorcycles – a chain that doesn’t accumulate grime will maintain near-optimal efficiency for more miles.

In terms of transmission efficiency, you can expect a MotoMax-treated motorcycle chain to be right at the top end (very close to 99% efficient in good conditions). It essentially aims to keep the chain in a “just lubricated” state all the time. There may not be a huge difference in pure percent efficiency between a freshly oiled chain and a MotoMax chain on day one. However, the advantage of EcoGlide MotoMax appears over time and use: where a regular oil might start to dry or attract dirt (losing a couple percent efficiency before the next re-oiling), the MotoMax coating stays effective for longer. In other words, the friction stays consistently low. Riders often notice that waxed or coated chains run consistently quieter and smoother, without the peaks of rattling when the oil has worn thin.

Another benefit is that these coatings often incorporate advanced lubricating solids. EcoGlide bicycle chain wax, for instance, uses graphene, a super-slippery form of carbon, to reduce contact friction (How Bike Chain Wax Can Improve Your Cycling Performance – Wildfern supply). The MotoMax motorcycle formula uses similar advanced ingredients. These microscopic particles can fill in surface asperities in the metal and create an ultra-low-friction film. When you have something like that in play, the wattage loss due to friction can be extremely low. We mentioned earlier that the best bicycle chain lubes had losses around 3.8 W at 250 W load (mechanical – Lost power when chain is not lubricated properly – Bicycles Stack Exchange) – those best lubes are usually wax or advanced formula. By extension, a MotoMax chain under, say, a 20 horsepower load (~15,000 W) might lose only a few hundred watts (or even less), similar to a normally oiled chain at its best. In essence, the ceiling of performance is about the same as oil, but the floor (when things get nasty) is higher – it won’t drop off as much when you ride through dust, rain, or just rack up miles.

Fuel efficiency with an EcoGlide-treated chain should be on par with a well-lubricated chain, and the benefit is that you’re more likely to consistently get that top-notch MPG. Since the friction stays low consistently, your bike’s MPG won’t fluctuate as much due to chain condition. If we estimate that a well-lubed chain saves a few percent of fuel, then a MotoMax chain ensures you keep saving that fuel every ride, without the periodic dips in efficiency a neglected chain might cause. It’s more about maintaining optimal efficiency than boosting it far beyond what oil could ever achieve. That said, if EcoGlide reduces friction a tad more than oil in certain cases (for example, when hot or under load), there could be a marginal MPG improvement. Even a 1% gain is something – on a long tour, an extra mile per gallon or two thanks to lower friction is a nice bonus.

Where EcoGlide MotoMax really shines is chain wear and longevity. By providing robust lubrication that doesn’t wash off, it protects the chain continuously. Tests of wax-based lubes in gritty conditions show dramatically less chain wear compared to regular oil (AlliedCycleWorks). This is because the coating keeps dirt out of the critical pin and bushing areas and reduces metal-on-metal contact to nearly zero. A MotoMax-treated chain can run *almost* as if it’s in a sealed, clean environment. Some advanced motorcycle chains, like BMW’s new “M Endurance” chain, achieve a similar effect by using special coatings (like diamond-like carbon) so that they **don’t require external lubrication at all** ([Regina Chain and BMW’s “Maintenance-Free” M Endurance Chain Review – (VikingBags). The idea is the same: a permanently lubricated or coated interface that fends off wear. Users of immersive wax treatments often report getting double or triple the chain life because the chain doesn’t experience the typical grinding from dirt. We’d expect a MotoMax-treated chain to last significantly longer than a conventionally oiled chain, especially in environments where you might otherwise have to clean and lube frequently (rain, off-road, winter salt, etc.). The sprockets also benefit, since a cleaner, slicker chain causes less sprocket tooth wear.

What are the trade-offs for these benefits? Mainly, the application and cost. Treating a chain with something like EcoGlide MotoMax can be a bit more involved than a quick spray of oil. For example, if it’s a waxy coating, you may need to thoroughly clean and dry the chain, and then apply the treatment and let it set. However, you typically don’t need to apply them as often. EcoGlide might only need reapplication every few hundred or thousand miles, depending on the formula’s longevity. Compare that to oiling your chain every 300 miles religiously. Over a long period, you might actually break even on cost, since the MotoMax saves not only fuel and wear, but also the amount of product used (if one treatment lasts as long as 5 oilings, for instance).

Maintenance with EcoGlide is generally cleaner. You won’t get that black fling-off splattered around, and your chain looks dry and clean to the touch (no more greasy fingers when you bump it). However, when it does come time to reapply, you might need to use a solvent to strip the old coating before putting on a fresh coat (AlliedCycleWorks) – conventional lubes usually just layer on, whereas wax-type lubes need a reset once they’re spent.

One thing to note is that EcoGlide MotoMax and similar treatments work best on non-sealed chains or O-ring/X-ring chains that are new or very clean. If your chain is an O-ring type (many motorcycle chains are), remember the O-rings keep grease inside the pins from the factory. A treatment like MotoMax mainly affects the exterior (roller-to-sprocket and roller-to-bushing interfaces, and keeps O-rings moist). It can still help a lot (reducing external friction and protecting O-rings from drying), but it doesn’t get inside the sealed pin areas (which is fine if the factory grease is intact). So, MotoMax isn’t magically lubricating inside your chain’s pins (nor is any external lube, for that matter, if you have a sealed chain in good shape). What it does is provide a superior solution for the parts of the chain we can lubricate externally.

Summing up the EcoGlide experience: you get a chain that runs at consistently high efficiency, likely in the 98–99% range like an optimal oiled chain, with friction losses about as low as physically possible for a chain drive. Your MPG and power delivery remain steady and optimal. The chain and sprockets wear at a slower pace, extending their service life. And you avoid much of the mess and hassle of constant re-oiling – your maintenance intervals are stretched out. The downsides are the upfront effort and possibly higher cost per application, but many riders find this worth it for the convenience of not having to fuss with the chain as often. It’s an eco-friendly angle too (as the name suggests) – less flung-off oil means less grime on your bike and less lubricant ending up on the road or environment. Just be sure to follow the application instructions to get the best results; high-tech lubes need proper use to live up to their potential, as one study pointed out (some waxes work amazing but only if you apply them right, otherwise an improperly applied wax can perform no better than oil) (AlliedCycleWorks).

Conclusion

Whether you stick with regular oil or spring for an EcoGlide MotoMax treatment, one thing is clear: never neglect your chain. A non-lubricated chain is a shortcut to wasted power, lower MPG, and a worn-out drivetrain. Even a basic regimen of cleaning and oiling your chain every so often can boost its efficiency by several percent and save you from losing precious watts of power () (). For most riders, a quality motorcycle chain lube or oil will keep the bike running smooth and fuel-efficient with minimal effort.

For those who want the absolute best and are willing to invest a bit more upfront, EcoGlide MotoMax or similar advanced lubes offer near-ideal performance and convenience. They keep friction exceedingly low and avoid the “dirt magnet” problem of wet oils, which means your chain stays in peak condition longer (AlliedCycleWorks). That translates to virtually no power loss increase even as the miles add up, and potentially a longer stretch between refueling stops (albeit the MPG gains here are subtle). Plus, your chain and sprockets might thank you with a much longer life, saving money in the long haul.

In plain terms: A well-lubricated chain – however you achieve it – is key to getting all the power you paid for from your engine to the pavement. It’s also key to getting the most miles per gallon when cruising. The differences we’re talking about (a few percent efficiency or a few watts of friction) might seem small, but they are real and measured, and they become significant over time (especially if gas prices rise or if you rack up a lot of miles). Chain lubrication isn’t just about avoiding an annoying squeak; it’s about mechanical efficiency.

So next time you’re about to ride, take a quick look at your chain. If it’s looking dry or rusty, grab that lube can (or consider a MotoMax upgrade) – your bike’s performance and fuel economy will quietly improve, and your wallet will indirectly thank you with fewer part replacements and fuel stops. It’s a little bit of easy science every rider can benefit from: less friction = more function. Keep it lubed, keep it efficient, and enjoy the ride!

References

1. E. Palazzetti and X. Yan, “Study on lubrication effect on motorbike chain transmissions,” Industrial Lubrication and Tribology, vol. 67, no. 5, pp. 452–461, 2015. This study measured chain efficiency, temperature, and vibration under dry, spray-lubricated, and continuous oil-lubricated conditions, showing lubrication boosted efficiency by up to ~4–5% () ().
2. S. Beckford, “Study on the effect of chain lubrication on energy losses in bicycle drive trains,” SurfTec LLC White Paper, 2021. An experimental paper testing traditional and advanced (hydrophobic) bicycle chain lubes. It found a wax-based prototype lube (GRAX) reduced frictional losses by 17% in clean conditions and 23% in muddy conditions compared to factory lube ([ Drivetrain Lubrication White Paper – Allied Cycle Works ](https://alliedcycleworks.com/blogs/stories/drivetrain-lubrication-white-paper?srsltid=AfmBOoqdHwS1vqCm-ACgNVU1XGT8XPOkhab-7y8QP7eUgVb8zIVoL5Z3#:~:text=water%20and%20dirt%2C%20and%20,in%20muddy%20conditions)).
3. M. Large, StackExchange Bicycles Q&A, 2019 – “Lost power when chain is not lubricated properly.” Answer post. (mechanical – Lost power when chain is not lubricated properly – Bicycles Stack Exchange) (mechanical – Lost power when chain is not lubricated properly – Bicycles Stack Exchange) This Q&A discusses drivetrain losses in watts. It notes a new lubed bicycle chain loses ~7W at 250W input (~3% loss), and even the worst lubricant tested only lost 9W vs the best at ~3.8W, highlighting the minor but tangible differences lubrication makes. It also emphasizes how lack of lube increases wear and can triple friction in extreme cases.
4. L. Shifat, “What is Chain Drive on a Motorcycle?” DeshiBiker Blog, Feb 17, 2025. General overview of motorcycle chain drives. States that a chain drive is the most efficient final-drive option with only about 1–4% power loss when properly maintained, vs higher losses for belts or shafts (What is Chain Drive on a Motorcycle?). Useful for basic efficiency expectations of a well-lubricated chain.